The next day we anchored at Rio Dulce 3 NM before Livingston, at a place we call Rio Dulce Hurricane Whole, due to the steep green mountains surrounding this part of the river. During the night we woke up by increasing wind noise from the top of the mountains and thunder activity close to our position. I guess that was a small part of Hurricane Dean, which we later were told had changes direction for El Salvador instead of Guatemala. We returned to Bruno’s Marina two days later and where directed to a new docking position by Dock Master Steve.
Sunday 26 August 2007, was the time for a new buss trip to Guatemala City. This time was the reason to finish the paper work for Kenneth, at the Colombian Consulate, as well as renew the local Visa for CarmenThe final visit on the Colombian Consulate passed by without any delays, but instead we got some problems to renew the Guatemalan Visa for Carmen, at the Immigration Head Quarter.
We had expected the renewal to be an easy procedure due to what we had been told at the Guatemalan Embassy in Belize City. The initial requirements from the Immigration Officer was more different than expected due to she straight away told Carmen that her Visa will expire to morrow and can not be renewed by her. We then asked to speak with her superior and were directed to the Manager of Immigration. That person was not open for any solutions to the renewal of the Visa and we finally decided to climb on top with the problem and therefore in person contacted the Director of Immigration who assured us that the Manager on his request will issue a new Visa for Carmen.
Carmen got her Visa 2 hours later by the Manager of Immigration who directly showed how unhappy she was to stamp Carmen’s passport. The reason for the 2 hours waiting time was caused by the manager’s lunch break.
Other activities in Guatemala City were a visit to the Zoo, a very nice green area, due to a park surrounding the Zoo. Some times it was difficult to understand that the animals where surrounded by a fence due to the design of their natural environment.
The animals represented was the most common animals from Asia, Africa, North, Central and South America and David was very excited over this experience due to his first visit ever in a Zoo.
We also got time left to visit some other shopping centre as well as explore new places in the central part of the city. This time we spend the first night on Pan American Hotel, an old famous facility designed according the colonial style hotel buildings. I found that the rooms needed an upgrading, but the service during the very good dinner we had was excellent. The remaining time we again used Hotel Residencia del Sol. All together was the third visit in “Guate” under more relaxed circumstances than during the past. We stayed in Guatemala City 4 days and returned by buss to Sea Sprite at Wednesday 29 September 2007.
Next Hurricane on the forecasted track Nicaragua, Honduras and Guatemala was named “Felix” and this time we didn’t leave Bruno’s Marina, but instead prepared Sea Sprite for a storm passage with the center 50 NM North of our position. All furling sails were taken down, as well as Bimini and Canvas. All loose outside equipment was secured or stowed away and the dingy was packed down in the transport bag. The docking lines were doubled and safety secured for flood or abnormal waves activity.
Hurricane Felix died overhead the mountains of Honduras and the only remains passing Rio Dulce was 2 days heavy rain and gusty winds. So again we were lucky and can still call Rio Dulce a hurricane safe area.
A lot of time has been used preparing Sea Sprite for our next voyage. The Raymarine Chart Plotter RL70 had to be replaced due to a display failure which was more expensive to repair than to trade into the new C70 Model. As usual on top came some additional expenses. Raymarine navigation parts and other associated items had also to be replaced due to updated hard and software functionalities between the 3 years older RL70 and the newer C70 Multifunction System.
Other obstacles to pass through were the local Customs regulations concerning import of “spare parts to a yacht in transit.” In Guatemala that fraise don’t work at all; generally all items imported will be charged 12% IVA and depending on the Customs Officer mood they might also charge 10% DAI. Taxes which together with handling and transport cost severely increase the total costs for the hard needed yacht merchandises.
The bimini clothing had to be replaced with a new modified construction for better protection of the radiation from the sun. The refrigerator stopped cooling one day and the leak had to be found, repaired and new Freon added. The hydraulic steering fluid had to be replaced and bleed for air bubbles. 6 Months service and maintenance on the Ford Diesel engine had to be performed. The list was long and by other words Sea Sprite required our attention almost every day during the last 4 weeks stay in Rio Dulce. The biggest problem was the lack of marine spare parts in Guatemala, why several planned items had to be postponed to a later occasion outside Guatemala.
David and myself had to renew our entry permit for another 2 Months and we all 3 went to Livingston by Lancha, an open 25 feet boat with a noisy outboard engine. It’s a 1-2 hours trip depending on the tourist attractions along Rio Dulce the Lancha Captain want to guide us through. The paper work in Livingston was fast done so we also spend some time sight seeing the town. For instants they have a small Plaza where 4 Crocodiles can be seen and of course David was very interested and resisted leaving the place on the planned Lancha departure time.
We have met several friends during our stay in Rio Dulce and are of course also spending some good time together. Recently we visited Agua Caliente in Lago Izabel, a hot water spring flushing out from one of the volcanic mountains. Agua Caliente is a famous place to clean and soften the skin and personally I enjoyed my swim in the healthy water. Longer down streams the Indians make a combination of washing the laundry and shower them self in the healthy river water.
Carmen and David went for a 2 days tour till Tikal for exploring the famous Maya ruins in the jungle. Carmen was much exited about this cultural area with the fantastic architecture from the late Post classic period around year 1100. Due to the nearby jungle there were plenty of Howler monkeys swinging noisily through the branches of ancient trees, as brightly colored parrots and toucans dart from perch to perch in a cacophony of squawks. The transport to and from Tikal was by “chicken bus” to Flores, a 4 hours mixed experience each way, and another 1 hours drive by mini van between Flores and Tikal. The name chicken bus comes from the type of mixed passenger together with all there items to sell on the marked. The majority of the passengers were Indians which gives a colorful presence to the mixed load.
Other places we visited were Puerto Barrios, 2 ½ hours drive, for special needed shopping items, or Morales, 1 hour drive, for general items not found in Rio Dulce’s shopping areas.
Our time in Rio Dulce will soon come to an end, when writing this are there only 2 weeks left before leaving Bruno’s Marina and sail to Livingston for the check out procedure. There after we must time the next high water to cross the sand bank for the Caribbean Sea.
Fair wind and calm sea,
Hans-Martin